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I really want to get into gig photography.. I am not sure how to get the lights on the stage to not be so bright. They look like giant hot spots. Any info would be great
Thanks
Lisa
I know.. i need to get a 70-200 2.8.. It is on my to do list

shoot at a faster shutter speed or stop the len's down........ google is your friend.......

otherwise if you want to use f2.8 which lets a lot of light in
you could buy a neutral density filter x2 to get a darker image otherwise just shoot at a higher shutterspeed(which is free) and will benefit your pics if you want rock solid images, otherwise if you liek movement in your dynamic images get a Neutral density x4 filter and shoiot at f2.8 with a slow shutter like 1/20 and get cool effects

Hi Lisa
what metering mode are you using & how are you using it ?

If you're not using spot metering, this might be something to try out. You can meter off your subject & play around with exposure compensation until you find the right balance....

hi,
i wasnt using any metering.. i am really only beginning to learn all aspects of photography but thanks for the tips.

First one is decent, but yeah, you're going to need better composition on the others as well as a faster shutter speed.

Aussie Dave wrote:Hi Lisa
what metering mode are you using & how are you using it ?

If you're not using spot metering, this might be something to try out. You can meter off your subject & play around with exposure compensation until you find the right balance....

Dave,

Lisa has a 350, so no spot metering.

Lisa, you're going to need to switch to cedntre weighted metering - can you adjust the size of the central spot? If so, make it as small as possible.

Stage lighting is very difficult, and gig lighting is usually worse. It's also a high contrast situation, with areas of high illumination interspersed with areas of zero illumination, and the problem is that they're all going to be included in your shooting frame.

Decide what your subject is going to be, and set your meter accordingly; use your histogram to confirm exposure.

I can't recall if you have flash exposure compensation on the 350; I know th 300 did not, but I believe that you may have it. If so, try using flash at about -1.5 - -2 stops to help fill in the contrast gaps. At that level, use a shutter speed of around 1/60 and aperture of 5.6 - 8, and you should have a reaonable starting point, and your flash won't be overpowering the stage lighting.

Hey Lisa,

The first one is nice, perhaps just needed to go one to three shutter speeds quicker to underexpose just a tiny bit more so the lights don't blow out - with the amount of light there, it looks like it was doable.

The second and third one are focus and composition issues, and that needs to be fixed on site. Unless you wanted the Christmas tree as your subject!

Hope this helps.

Paul.

hey paul

i actually did want the christmas tree as the subject. i was being arty. lol

Whoops my Sony.... In that case good isolation of the subject with creative use of dof.

thanks

When I do gigs I use full manual with centerwieghted metering.

The main reason why I use manual is so i can achieve the light effect that I want which is sometimes considered underexposing by the metering but when in the computer it looks good.

regarding lights, unless you use some super fast shutter speed they'll always be hot spots on the image and thats something you have to deal with on PS or just learn to live with. I can honestly say lights have never ever given me grief during a gig.

My lens choice for gigs are primes, 50mm 1.8 and sooner or later Ill get my hands on a 20mm 2.8 for the gigs.

I usually use f2 on the 1.8 and they come out fine 75% of the time.

here is an example of my 50mm lens at a gig using a very very minimal amount of flash to fill inthe face while keeping the stage lighting as the primary light source.




I like to use fast prime lenes though that may not be your cup of tea.

Michael

I like your first image alot. - nice colours.
Keep trying (this is a bit rich coming from someone who has only ever photographed one concert )

Cheers
Gecko

lentil wrote:hi,
i wasnt using any metering.. i am really only beginning to learn all aspects of photography but thanks for the tips.

How were you getting your exposure?

Highlights like spotlights will always blow out because the contrast range is just too great. just practice practice practice practice practice practice then practice some more, avoiding them will become second nature or you will learn to use them as features.

Have a look at the 80 200 f2.8 IFED I use the non VR I reckon VR will take the movement out of the camera but not the subject.

Still they are nice shots and nice colours.

thanks dug.. because i am still fairly new, I just experiement with what i think, hve a look at it after i have taken it and decide then what i need to do in regards to exposures etc..

i have a canon so i am looking into the 70-200 2.8 (drool).. that will be a long while off though

I think getting closer to the action with fast prime lenses is the key.

thats just my experience with things.

i couldnt get any closer.. otherwise i would be on the stage. I agree with the good fast prime... now to just afford it

Hey Lisa, you and I should buy a pair each - 50 1.4 and 70-200 IS 2.8. Maybe someone will cut us a deal!

What's up with getting on the stage? You just need to work out a way to not get kicked off again afterwards. I've been allowed on stage several times for a friend's band and gee it's a buzz!

It was most definately the hugest buzz ever.. I wasnt on the stage but very close to it, leaning on it.