Comments, please, especially ways to improve the camera work.

D70, 80-400VR at 400mm, 1/30th, F/5.6, EV-0.7, crouching and propped against my knee.
80-400VR sample - bedraggled kookaburraModerators: Greg B, Nnnnsic, Geoff, Glen, gstark, Moderators
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80-400VR sample - bedraggled kookaburraSome of the local feathered wildlife likes my balcony when it rains, including this kookaburra. This one seems to have come out ok.
Comments, please, especially ways to improve the camera work. ![]() D70, 80-400VR at 400mm, 1/30th, F/5.6, EV-0.7, crouching and propped against my knee. Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to seem smarter when they come at you rapidly.
1/30 @ 400!!
I'm with Steffen, that's amazing. I can barely even do 1/30 @ 50! But I think that's more to do with my basic technique sucking than anything else ![]()
The VR is extremely good, no doubt about it - but it requires skill to get a result like this at 1/30 and 400mm. I have the 80-400 and still learning.
Greg - - - - D200 etc
Talent hits a target no one else can hit; Genius hits a target no one else can see. - Arthur Schopenhauer
Great shot
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Cropped a bit tight maybe? Would like to see all of the feathers on top.
That Kookaburra is not laughing!
![]() President, A.A.A.A.A (Australian Association Against Acronym Abuse)
Canon EOS R6, RF 24-105 F4, RF 70-200 F4, RF 35mm F1.8, RF 16mm F2.8 "And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free." (John 8:32)
I had a suggestion for a light fill flash to bring out a bit more detail around the eye, and moving the crop at the top out to catch all the head feathers would be better too. Unfortunately the crop point at the top of the head isn't a crop point, it's the image boundary, so I can't do anything with it. Can't fake the fill flash either, cause that would require a bit of Photoshop knowledge...
Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to seem smarter when they come at you rapidly.
G'day,
This is a pearler, classic aussie icon... I also use the 80-400 and find it to be a terrific lens especially for the money... Only thing you might want to try with that lens is stopping down a smidge, say F7.1 - F8... Might get a smidge sharper image... DISCLAIMER! Not that I pretend to be able to pick it but seems a common suggestion that it's sharper when stopped down a smidge. I noticed that you were F5.6 but EV-0.7, so I assume you could afford to go to F8 and reduce the negative EV... Judging by the background you woudn't have any worries with background details not blurring out enough, so you could afford the longer DOF going from F5.6 to F8. Aka Andrew
nice image of a wet kooka.
you have done well with the 1/30th sec exposure. you didnt specify the iso you used, I wouldnt be too afraid to go to iso 400 for these shots if you didnt already. I think I can see a tiny blur on the tip of the beak but not too bad. Exposure looks right, a little fill would probably help. Kookas can be tricky to expose correctly in bright light. You find that the white feathers above the eyes often significantly brighter than the rest of the bird. If you are using fill on kookas you typically need -1.3 EV to avoid blowing the highlights above the head. Steve
Thanks guys, this is what I was after.
It was an overcast day, so the highlights weren't really a problem. ISO was probably pretty high, I have a bad habit of forgetting to check it. Will take a look later when I have access to the image. Good call re stopping it down. I've seen references to lenses being sharper at mid-range apertures, but never actually taken test shots to see what difference it makes. Bit more depth of field certainly wouldn't have hurt - the background is far enough away that it will still be out of focus. Better Beamer is intriguing, but I think I'd be better off figuring out how to use the SB800 I already have first. Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to seem smarter when they come at you rapidly.
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